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The true heartbeat of the day is not the morning rush hour, but . Every street corner features a "chaiwala" (tea seller) boiling a potent mixture of black tea, milk, ginger, cardamom, and enough sugar to make a dentist weep. Office workers, auto-rickshaw drivers, and executives all stop to sip from small, disposable clay cups (kullhads). This 15-minute break is the great equalizer. In India, you don't drink tea; you experience it.
